The ‘trip of a lifetime’ tag is cliché but for this getaway it rings true
By Paul Ewart
“There they are!” a disembodied voice cries out from somewhere behind me. An excited buzz takes over as I — and my fellow Zodiac passengers — lean overboard and strain our eyes towards the rapidly approaching craggy island in the near distance. Sure enough, I see them — sea lions, and lots of them!
Within moments of the first spotting, another appears, then another, and another. At least 50 of them, both in and out of the water. Energetic ‘barks’ merge with the sound of splashes as these flashing grey torpedoes frolic in the water like a group of fun-loving toddlers. And now it’s time for us to join them.
Galápagos sea lions sunbathing on the beach at Espanola island, Galapagos Islands.Credit: iStock
Suited up in my wetsuit, mask, fins and snorkel, I slip into the blue and almost instantly have three curious young sea lions surround me in the water. I watch as their lithe bodies gracefully twist and turn like underwater ballerinas. They take turns in swimming right up to me, whiskers scraping my snorkel mask, before darting away in a split-second.
“This is amazing!” I exclaim to my partner as I return to the surface, desperate to share my elation. He beams at me, no words necessary, and we both dive back down to frolic with these playful puppies of the ocean once more.
I’m only one day into my week-long Wild Galapagos Escape voyage onboard the National Geographic Lindblad Islander II and already the Galapagos has worked its magic upon me.
Positioned some 1000 kilometres off the coast of mainland Ecuador, the isolated location of the Galapagos Islands is the reason behind its unique flora and fauna — much of it found nowhere else in the entire world. On land there’s blue-footed boobies (marine birds), giant tortoises and iguanas, and below sea-level there’s even more to shout about with sea lions, hammerhead and Galapagos sharks, dolphins, rays, penguins, turtles and more than 440 species of fish.
Most of the islands are so remote that cruising is the only way to explore this far-flung archipelago. Enter Lindblad Expeditions.
Pioneers in Galapagos cruising, Lindblad brought the very first group of citizen explorers more than 50 years ago and, in the intervening decades since, they have honed their offering. In fact, the expedition company is renowned for having the best education and science components in the biz.
These expert naturalists lead hikes, kayaking trips and nature walks and run daily informative presentations and lectures to regale you with tales of the islands’ history, geology, and the fascinating adaptations of its inhabitants. But it’s not just about learning. While this is certainly not a ‘fly and flop’ relaxing getaway, just because you’re adventuring like Attenborough it doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice on creature comforts.
Christened in 2022, Lindblad’s Islander ll is Lindblad Expeditions’ first ‘all-suite’ ship, so every guest is guaranteed a bit of the suite life. This means expansive marble bathrooms with dual vanities and rainfall showers, inclusive minibars, in-room WiFi and flat screen TVs with a collection of pre-programmed movies. And when it’s time to sleep, spacious beds and 600-thread count sheets ensure a restful slumber. Special features include an impressive observation deck, a dedicated science hub, sauna, plunge pool, library, bar area, and even a small spa for some at-sea pampering.
I see rocks piled high with the endemic marine iguana, black and red creatures that Charles Darwin famously dubbed “Imps of Darkness”.
All this adventure is bound to work up an appetite and for hungry cruise hounds, the food and drink offering on any ship is a highlight, and the National Geographic Islander ll certainly doesn’t disappoint. Meals are largely influenced by Ecuadorian and Galapagos flavours and utilise locally sourced ingredients wherever possible. By day, expect breakfasts and lunch in the airy Patio Café — with its enormous outdoor seating area to allow diners to soak in the idyllic views and to spot dolphins and sharks — and by night, expect multi-course dinners in the elegant Yacht Club Restaurant. There’s also a full bar onboard, with bar staff creating specialty cocktails daily.
Activities abound but life onboard is very much a ‘choose your own adventure’ style meaning you can do as much, or as little, as you like. No two days are alike, and the expeditions are as diverse as the islands visited, each of which offer a balance of wildlife, landscapes, and experiences.
One day I’m basking on a postcard-perfect beach — the kind of stretch of sand that would feature in a ‘world’s best’ roundup — and another day, we’re trekking over lava fields on a hike, during which I see hundreds, if not thousands, of albatross and both blue footed and masked boobies mating. That same hike I also see rocks piled high with the endemic marine iguana, black and red creatures that Charles Darwin famously dubbed “Imps of Darkness”.
Back onboard during dinner that night I tick off yet another Galapagos critter from my wish list: the Galapagos shark. Mid-mouthful I spot 30 or so huge grey silhouettes below the boat, their tails zig-zagging as they feed on reef fish. Another nature documentary-worthy moment that I won’t forget anytime soon.
The ‘trip of a lifetime’ tag is a hackneyed cliché but in some cases, the Galapagos being one, this cliché rings true. However, as one of the last remaining places in the world unspoiled by humans, its popularity is soaring.
Last year saw record visitor numbers, and tourists here have doubled in the past decade alone. In response, the local government has announced a doubling in park fees amid concerns that rising visitor numbers will put pressure on the ecologically sensitive destination so, for those wanting to experience the islands that inspired Darwin, it really is a case of see them now before it gets too late.
The writer travelled as a guest of Lindblad Expeditions.
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